St. Petersburg Russia’s Best Libraries and Bookshops

Rainy, romantic and relaxed; these three elements make St Petersburg the perfect city to sink into the depths of an armchair with a good book and steaming mug in hand. During the reigns of Peter the Great and his equally forward-thinking daughter, Elizabeth, many libraries were opened in the hope of educating the public by exposing them to novel ideas from the West. Today, St Petersburg’s libraries contain some of the world’s largest, oldest and rarest collections of books - both in Russian and foreign languages. These libraries are often housed in buildings as grand as palaces and are well worth a visit for the architecture and wood-paneled interiors alone.

The Russian National Library on Nevsky Prospekt

Russia’s oldest public library has been a haven for bookworms for more than two centuries but— despite its central location directly opposite Catherine the Great’s monument— it is almost never explored by tourists. The reason can’t be due to a lack of interest as the building itself is a masterpiece, taking 15 years in the making, and the 36 million strong collection of books, which stretches back to the 11th century, is as impressive as any of the Hermitage’s exhibitions. Perhaps the reason why so few foreigners get to walk up its grand marble staircase and peruse Voltaire’s private library under the soft light of the prominent green lamps is that there is the misconception that to enter the library one must have a library card. Thankfully, by arranging tours on the library’s website (http://nlr.ru/eng/RA2397/general-tour) foreigners without library cards can explore this treasure trove for a reasonable 800 roubles per person.

Mayakovsky Library

Just a stone’s throw away from the Russian National Library, to the left of Anichkov Bridge, lies another book-lovers paradise. Though sadly not all of this library has not been looked after as carefully as the National Library, the mansion of the famed Duke Golitsyn where it is housed is still worth a visit. The fabulously ornate fireplaces tucked behind bookcases are a rare sight as well as the oak-paneled private library of Duke Goltisyn, which looks as if it came right out of Oxford; what with the swirling staircases and books as big as tables. In fact, this library has a special connection to Britain. Before the massacres of the revolution, the Goltisyn family were wise enough to emigrate to England. A few generations later, the young Duke Gotisyn became interested in his grandparents’ motherland and bravely began organizing tours for intrepid foreigners to the USSR. He was a rarity; one of a few working tirelessly to keep the window of communication open between the Europeans and the Soviets during the cold war. As tribute to his efforts, the government gave him a room in his forebear’s mansion in which he set up a library dedicated to Anglo-Russian relations. This one-roomed library located within the Mayakovsky library has recently been restored and, as the books are mostly in English, there’s no reason not to come. We can’t imagine a rainy afternoon spent better than in the welcoming armchairs of Goltisyn’s library overlooking the tree-lined Neva.

The Russian National Library on Fontanka

So vast is the collection of the Russian National Library that it requires not one or even two, but five grand libraries to house its books. Though the books at the library on the Fontanka embankment are not as old or famed as the ones at the National Library next to Yekaterininskiy Gardens, the building itself is as equally impressive as the main library, and no wonder. With its founder being the demanding Catherine the Great, everything from the innumerable columns supporting its creamy-peach facade to the exquisite decorations edging the high ceilings had to be faultless. From the moment your hands push against the brass and wood turnstile at the entrance, you’ll feel as if you’ve entered another world - a nobler world than the one you’ve left behind along with the biting wind.

St. Petersburg State Theatre Library

Just behind the resplendent Alexandrinksy Theatre, nestled within the Museum of Theatre and Music, lies a library unknown to even the most bookish of locals. With a history stretching back even further than the National Library, this book depositary devoted entirely to all things theatrical has changed very little since 1756 when Tsarina Elizabeth ordered it to be made for the benefit of Russia’s still relatively young community of thespians. Initially, it was used only to house scripts from theatre repertoires, but over the years it expanded to include many things of note, from the signatures of illustrious theatre folk to the sketches of some of the most exquisite costumes that graced the stages of the Mariinsky. Of particular note, are the original manuscripts of Tolstoy, Griboedov and Chekhov that are housed inside this seldom visited gem.

Gogol Library

Not all of St Petersburg’s libraries are centuries old and housed in palaces, indeed some like the Gogol Library are as sleek and modern as any library you’d expect to find in a Nordic city. With funky, artificial grass lining the floor of its reading room and pop-colored sofas, this library is the perfect place to cheer up and chill out; an especially welcome burst of color in winter. Keeping in tune with its contemporary interiors, there are often forward-thinking discussion groups held here. Popular Russian authors also often come to give talks and sometimes there are even live art performances! This certainly is not the kind of library where one will get shushed at.

Book Capella

This library has the distinction of being not the oldest or most extensive, but rather the most expensive library in Russia, if not the world. Though this exclusive library only opened in 2016, an uninformed visitor would be excused for thinking it was as old as the palace Karamzina in which it is housed. Candelabras light the polished wooden staircases and heavy, gothic chandeliers hang low above the mahogany tables. Hoping to recreate the atmosphere of Oxford’s famed studies, every little detail has been meticulously researched so that the whole experience - down to the musty smell emanating from the carpets - is an authentic one. On the deep-set, exquisitely carved book shelves in the various reading rooms there are over 5,000 rare books dating from the 1500s to just before the Russian revolution. The books on show are estimated to cost around  $500 to $1000 each, and the owner of the library, Alfaret, is a publishing house which sells reproductions of some of the most famous works on show in the library. Unfortunately, no matter how enticing this paradise for the literati sounds, it is out of reach of most as even the shortest, two-hour visit costs 4,000 roubles. Apparently annual membership runs into the millions! Little wonder then that the main clientele of this elite establishment are business men and government cronies looking for a secluded spot in which to discuss deals. 

Dom Knigi 

One of the most prominent buildings on Nevksy Prospekt is home to the city’s biggest bookshop. The Singer building is instantly recognizable by its soaring glass-and-metal dome and large, embellished windows which offer the best views of Kazansky Cathedral. Unlike other bookshops in St Pete, many of the books on sale are in English. The focus on beautifully illustrated books makes this store ideal for buying coffee-table books to take home as souvenirs. “It is a truth universally acknowledged, that a bookstore of good repute, must be in want of an equally good cafe.”, so Jane Austen is supposed to have said and Dom Knigi has thankfully taken Austen’s ever wise advice to heart. On the second floor of this bookstore, one can sip on coffees and teas and savor sumptuous brunches with wonderful books as an accompaniment.  Could there possibly be a better place to start the day?

Knigi I Kofe (Books & Coffee)

A breakfast spot for St Petersburg’s artistic crowd, Knigi I Kofe is exactly what it promises to be— a wonderful combinations of life’s two great pleasures. Apart from the art books and coffee, live music concerts, art exhibitions, shows and lectures are often held in this white-washed and refreshingly space. Should you get peckish while sipping the divine coffee here, there’s a nourishing menu filled with colourful foods and plenty of vegetarian options.